04. the Olmecs

The reason for our relatively slow progress towards Yucatan is the Olmecs; Mexico’s first well organized civilisation, which started around 3000 years ago (dates vary wildly in the literature), and according to archaeologists provided the basis, in terms of religion, science, architecture and art, for the subsequent indigenous cultures. As far as physical remains are concerned, the Olmecs are particularly famous for the ‘cabezas colosales’, their colossal heads. A total of seventeen have been found, probably representing powerful local rulers, and they are all different, meticulously carved from basalt. Some have suffered from weathering, but all of them – well, the few we have seen, so far – have a delicate facial expression, very personal. First time we came across them was 20 years ago, when we visited the Parque La Venta in Villahermosa, where four of them are exposed, together with other Olmec stone artefacts, along the walking paths through the park.

The Olmecs were confined, as far as we know, to the area around Veracruz, in the Southeast of Mexico, just before entering the Yucatan peninsula. As we are heading that way, we might as well take a look. Two major Olmec localities are La Venta, the centre of power from 800-400 BC, and Tres Zapotes, which dominated slightly later.

In Tres Zapotes there is no archaeological site to visit, only the museum. Which has a collection of Olmec artefacts from huge to tiny, all found in the vicinity. Of course, we first concentrate on the colossal head, Cabeza Colosal Numero Uno, proudly exhibited. This was the first head to be discovered, in Tres Zapotes in 1938 – although apparently, it had been found before, in 1882, but at the time not well documented and not publicised. It is 1.5 meters high and weights almost 8 tons; it is still unclear how on earth the Olmecs managed to transport the basalt from its source, probably some 150 kms away. It is thought to represent the ruler, at the height of his power. But there is lots more to admire, from huge stelae and roughly hewn figures, which are not always equally clear about subject matter, to very delicate, little sculptures, of heads, of people. The guide claims that those are the commoners, as opposed to the rulers depicted by the heads, but I have so my doubts. Many of the tiny heads are also decorated with headdresses, and as a minimum well-coiffed, which I suppose was not something common people did. All together a lovely small museum.

La Venta is an actual archaeological site, where we can roam around, climb the pyramid – overgrown with grass and trees, nothing like the impressive stone monuments of the Aztecs and the Maya, but still some 30 meters high. To protect the artefacts, what we see outside are replicas, but carved from the same basalt, and made to look as old as the original. I recognise the one colossal head we have seen long ago in the park in Villahermosa, where the original is being kept. And at the far end of the site are three more, equally impressive (even though these, too, are replicas – I am sure I would not see the difference if they are placed next to the original). There are some smaller figures, and lots of basalt pillars, or parts thereof, are scattered around, once no doubt part of a more impressive structure. Tracks lead into the jungle, where more artefacts, like a huge altar, can be found under the trees. The small on-site museum has a few more pieces, and these are the originals.

A third museum, as well as the largest colossal head, is to be found in Santiago Tuxla, where we spent the night. The head on the village square is some 3.4 meters high; the smallest heads in the museum, once again very well laid out, are in the order of a few centimetres. In addition, there are lots of other artefacts, including a second colossal head found near Tres Zapotes, several other large-scale basalt sculptures, as well as delicate earthenware, suggesting a high level or artistic capacity already early on in Mexican history. And this is all original stuff! Or so they say.

Most of the Olmec artefacts, whether sculptures or clay figures, are focussed on the human figure, others are anthropomorphic and zoomorphic. Very few are of realistic animals. Nowhere mentioned in the museums, but unmistakable, are the almond-shaped eyes in many of the faces, whether colossal or tiny, although mainstream scientists discard an Asian origin.

What is striking, is that these artefact were already appreciated very long ago; some have been found a 1000 years after they were produced, in Aztec and Maya offerings.

We were going to re-visit the Parque Archaeologico in Villahermosa, the park where we were first confronted with these remarkable artefacts 20 years ago, but unfortunately, the park is closed for remodelling, so we have to skip this. But we will try to visit the museum in Xalapa, on the way back to Mexico City, where another seven original colossal heads are displayed.