outside Waikabubak, Kampung Praijiang from a distance

outside Waikabubak, Kampung Praijiang from a distance

The second-largest town of Sumba is actually mostly a collection of traditional villages with tall, thatched-roof houses and ancient tombs.

Waikabubak, all seven streets of it, is one of those typically Sumbanese towns, not much happening, but full of genuinely friendly people; all curious about the foreigner, to be sure, but breaking into a smile as soon as you establish eye contact, and all eager to help – sometimes annoyingly so. But tourism has penetrated here, more than in Waingapu; the area around Waikabubak is more densely populated, and easier accessible. So more children have taken to holding up their hand, for a sweet or for money, and some have even taken to sticking up their middle finger, although I am sure they have no idea what it means.

the football pitch of Waikabubak, in the center of town

the football pitch of Waikabubak, in the center of town

tombs are everywhere, and have multiple uses, amongst them drying the laundry

tombs are everywhere, and have multiple uses, amongst them drying the laundry

Kampung Tambelar, right behind our hotel in the center of town

Kampung Tambelar, behind our hotel in the center of town

roofs decorated with the "horns of the house"

roofs decorated with the “horns of the house”

not all animals keep to the lower levels

not all animals keep to the lower levels

 

 

The town is a strange mixture of those facilities you expect in a town, government buildings, shops, a few churches, even a real football pitch, and that combined with the traditional kampungs with conical thatched roof houses. In the outskirts, but also right in the middle of town, whenever there is a rocky hill, there is a kampung on top, complete with tombs, praying totems, and rows of traditional houses. Scramble down again, over the slippery stones that make up the steep access to the kampong, and you end up in the main street, with cars, busses and noisy motorbikes, an ATM machine and the occasional restaurant.

some of the houses are excessively decorated with buffalo horns and pig jaws, all from ceremonies

some of the houses are excessively decorated with buffalo horns and pig jaws, all from ceremonies

Kampung Tarung, well developed with concrete walkways and modern technology

Kampung Tarung, well developed with concrete walkways and modern technology

prayer hut and old tomb in Kampung Waitabara, suburb of Waikabubak

prayer hut and old tomb in Kampung Waitabara, suburb of Waikabubak

woman pounding vegetables in Kampung Tarung

woman pounding vegetables in Kampung Tarung

Obviously, our interest is mainly in the traditional villages – after all, the ATMs here distribute only very small amounts of money, and the restaurants, as if by prior agreement, only serve ayam goring (fried chicken and white rice), nothing else. A relaxed stroll on a Sunday morning takes us through four or five kampungs, all different, all unique. Upon entering the village, we are stopped by people who want to know who we are, where we are from, where we are going to; all eager to show off their village, and exceedingly hospitable. We are invited to sit down, and chat about whatever seems appropriate, and between our limited Bahasa Indonesia and some limited English of our hosts, we manage – especially because some of the younger people actually speak excellent English. Some kampungs consist of five houses, no more, and are a rather muddy affair in between the exposed rocks, others are large establishments, twenty or more houses, and better equipped, with concrete walking paths and even street lights. Like in East Sumba, animals are scurrying in between the houses, and the tombs. Laundry everywhere, and – thanks to grandpa – the tombs, the big slabs of stone, make an excellent place to dry.

the stairs leading up to Kampung Prairami, outside town

the stairs leading up to Kampung Prairami, outside town

the tombs anouncing Kampung Praijiang, visible on the hill

the tombs anouncing Kampung Praijiang, visible on the hill

although some older inhabitants also do not object to being photographed

although some older inhabitants also do not object to being photographed

but in Kampung Gollu, the children have taken over the tombs

but in Kampung Gollu, the children have taken over the tombs

in Kampung Bondemarotto the tombs contain a few sculptures

in Kampung Bondemarotto the tombs contain a few sculptures

some of the tombs are impressive

some of the tombs are impressive

Kampung Segarum, outside town, is another traditional village

Kampung Segarum, outside town, is another traditional village

the hill top of Kampung Praijiang is mostly limestone, cut into stairs and paths

the hill top of Kampung Praijiang is mostly limestone, cut into stairs and paths

Outside Waikabubak, just a few kilometers east, there are more villages, once again mostly confined to the hill tops, but here they are not surrounded by a town, just jungle. Once more, I scramble from village to village, occasionally asking for directions – not seldom helped by somebody who decides to show me all the way -, and always being received kindly. It is that I am not a great fan of betelnut, but otherwise I am sure my teeth would have been coloured deeply red, by now. Great experience, wandering around in these villages. Difficult to explain, though, so enjoy the pictures, instead.

next: more villages around Wanokaka

keeping an eye on it all

keeping an eye on it all

woven bamboo baskets are ready to store the rice in

woven bamboo baskets are ready to store the rice in

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