01. the Syria idea

I do admit to a certain amount of opportunism. Years ago we planned to go to Syria, only to be denied by what was then euphemistically called the Arab Spring. We all know how that has developed in the past years, and especially in Syria. So when some organisation I know announced a trip to Syria, small group only, I jumped on the opportunity. And where some time ago, for our West African trip, my wife was ultimately the driving force in the decision to go, her reaction this time was less positive. ‘Lunatic’, she called me, and refused to even consider joining.

Not content with one opinion only, I consulted ChatGPT, that source of information succinctly summarising the views on the internet: ‘is it a good idea to travel to Syria?’ The answer:

‘Traveling to Syria is not advisable for most people due to ongoing conflict, security risks, and unstable political conditions. The country has experienced significant turmoil, including civil war and the presence of extremist groups, which have led to widespread violence and destruction. Additionally, there may be travel restrictions, limited access to basic services, and a lack of consular support from many countries.

Before considering travel to Syria, it’s crucial to thoroughly research the current situation, consult travel advisories issued by your government or international organizations, and consider the potential risks carefully. It’s generally recommended to prioritize safety and avoid travel to areas with active conflicts or unstable conditions.’

You know, don’t blindly trust AI. I have more resources. A good friend of mine is Lebanese, has his house in Beirut, has recently worked in Syria; he will have a much more balanced view. And he will know whether it is safe or not. So I called him, asked ‘Johnny, where are you these days?’ And when he casually said ‘Gaza’ – we are talking right in the middle of the Israeli assault, here – I realised that he would be the last one to tell me things are not safe. And indeed, he didn’t think it such a crazy idea to go to Syria.

In any case, by then I had already signed up for the trip, paid an advance, and dug into the details of the journey. We are, the twelve of us, traveling from Beirut to Damascus, and then with a trusted local guide first to the Syrian side of the Golan Heights, and then  to various places further north, ending up in Aleppo. On the way back a long day’s travel to Palmyra and on to Damascus, before returning to Beirut. Chance in a lifetime to see a bit of Syria – I don’t think I would travel on my own, without local support. And chance of a lifetime to experience local culture, from visiting Bedouins to attending a cooking class in traditional Syrian fare and – get this – participating in local wine making! In between the mosques, crusader castles, souqs and UNESCO World Heritage Site Roman theatres, of course. In and out in ten days. What could possibly go wrong?

next: the preparations