The idea to travel to Syria hatched at the end of November 2023, at a time that the conflict in Gaza was still pretty much geographically ‘contained’, if I can use that word. But in the following months the situation became increasingly complex, with Israel attacking the Iranian diplomatic mission in Damascus, Iran firing rockets at Israel and Israel contemplating retaliation, whilst Hezbollah was sort of low-key contributing with its rockets fired from Lebanon, seemingly trying to provoke another Israeli response. Hmm, our trip will start in Beirut, Damascus is obviously on the itinerary, too. I did wait rather a long time with booking my ticket. But then I did, once the situation seemed to calm down somewhat.
In the meantime my phone is almost permanently overheating. By now we are three groups – traveling back-to-back, not all at the same time -, some 35-40 people in total, and everybody is included in the same WhatsApp group. Part of the communication is quite useful, like suggestions on what to take along. Bring cash; actually, bring US$ only. And make sure they are crispy, new notes from after 2013, older is not being accepted locally. And also what NOT to bring along: one of the group seriously thought he could take his drones with him. Other group members are discussing side trips in Lebanon ahead of the Syria tour, and exchanged info on hotels, on SIM cards. In fact there were so many messages flying backwards and forth that some people couldn’t find back earlier answers to questions, so asked again. Dietary requirements, like “I don’t eat tomatoes”, and questions about dress code, “can I wear shorts?” and “what is better, running shoes or sandals?” Really. Well, part of group travel in the 21st century, I guess. Had I not vowed never to go group travel again, after my last – and first – experience? And we haven’t even left yet!
but first, a bit of history; or skip it, and go directly to the border.