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66. looking back on NE India

Blog entries
Having lived in India 20 years ago, we consider ourselves experts on the subject. But then, we never went to the Northeast, that part squeezed in between Bangladesh and Myanmar, until not so long ago unknown territory. Now there are two possibilities: either India has changed beyond recognition, in the past 20 years, or the [...]
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the Enchey Monastery

Blog entries
The Enchey Monastery, located on a hill top looking out over Gangtok, is a wonderful place, with a great atmosphere. The complex is a lot smaller than the Rumtek Monastery, with fewer buildings – fewer tourists, too –, but somehow it breathes a serene peace. Sunlight and a threatening sky also help.
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the Rumtek Monastery

Blog entries
Even though this most important of all Sikkim Buddhist monasteries, the Rumtek Monastery at about an hour’s drive from Gangtok, come across as pretty sterile, new, with a lack of atmosphere – and not only because military is ever present, protecting the Golden Stupa, as they say -, it does provide lots of opportunities for [...]
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the Darjeeling Railway Station and Loco Shed

Blog entries
Just because it is so fascinating, seeing old steam engines being operated by machinists, riding century-old railway tracks crossing the road, and negotiating other ancient railway station elements, a few more photos from the heart of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, Darjeeling itself. My brother would have loved this, I am sure!
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62. Darjeeling

Blog entries, Locations
A large part of Darjeeling occurs around the railway station, where the Toy Train arrives and departs. On the opposite side of the road is the Loco shed, where the different engines are kept, many of which are steam engines. There are quite a few trains, not just the once a day connection with Siliguri, [...]
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61. the Toy Train

Blog entries
Siliguri, or rather, nearby New Jalpaiguri Junction, is the starting point for what is commonly known as the Toy Train, a narrow gauge railway that runs between Siliguri and Darjeeling. And climbs from 120 meters above sea level to more than 2000. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, as it is officially known, was built in 1880 [...]
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60. Siliguri

Blog entries
Our arrival in Siliguri could not have been timed worse. Today is Ram Navami, the Hindu festival that celebrates the birth of Lord Rama. The entire city is coloured orange, from large and small flags, from garlands across the roads, from people’s dresses. Dutch football supporters could learn a thing or two. But from what [...]
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59. Dibrugarh

Blog entries, Locations
The day we leave Nagaland, there is another festival, in Mon, but we have to move on. Even we don’t have all the time of the world. As instructed, we check out with the Mon police, most of whom are obviously also at the festival, and we drive out of the mountains to the plains [...]
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58. the head hunters

Blog entries
One of the issues I have not yet discussed in great detail, is the head hunting history of the Naga, and especially of the Konyaks, who were apparently the fiercest, and who continued longest, probably well into the 1960s. Our own guide is pretty useless, and not readily forthcoming with information, but we overhear the [...]
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more portraits

Blog entries
Just like in Longwa, the village of Sheanghah Chingnyu also invites for some great photographs of the locals. Men, in traditional dress, complete with hats and wild pig teeth, or not. The women, contenders in the spinning competition. And the chief, with horns through his earlobes. Note that the tattooed former head hunters have been [...]
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