Five minutes into Assam – which indeed is well known for its tea – we stumble upon the Dejoo tea estate. And not only that, the plucking is in full swing, and literally hundreds of women, only women, are moving in between the tea bushes to harvest the top leaves.
It is exactly what you want, approaching a plantation. The bright green colour of the tea, and the multiple-colour dressed harvesters, rising above the tea plants. (Well, a bit of sun would have helped, but you cannot have it all, can you?). All tea harvesters belong to the Adivasi, a heterogenous group of tribal people who claim to be the original inhabitants of the Indian subcontinent.
Just when we arrive the women – all women, no men – line up to have their sacks of tea weighted, before they are being delivered to the collectors – the men -, for transport to the factory. It is clearly a moment of rest, and a moment to chat – and we make a welcome distraction, that much is clear. They are all curious about where we are from, where we are going to, and anything else that our limited common communication allows for. We can freely mingle amongst the women, and take pictures – they proudly pose. Some have brought their children, which must be hard, carrying your child on your back, in addition to the sacks of tea that get increasingly heavy. Many have come by bicycle, now parked in long rows along the path next to the tea fields. Many brought fabulous bamboo sun hats, which, however, aren’t really necessary today.
Great experience. Quite the opposite from our reception at the factory a little later, where entry is refused. By the men. For no obvious reason.
next: the ferry to Majuli Island

















