15. Homs

there is nothing, absolutely nothing, attractive in this post; yet I have to share this – with far too many photographs, I agree – because it is so impressive, and so sad. The entry into Homs is humbling. I have seen ruins before, last in and around Aleppo, but the destruction of the outskirts of … Read more

12. Aleppo

(this is going to be a long story, a sad story – with plenty of somber photographs and a few uplifting ones) Aleppo used to be the commercial capital and the biggest city of Syria, bigger than Damascus. My guidebook, from 2010: ‘In Aleppo 80% of its old monuments inside the walls have survived’ and … Read more

11. the road to Aleppo

NB: not all the pictures are equally sharp, I am afraid, as many have been taken from a driving bus with a partly malfunctoning camera. But you’ll get the idea. Only a few days ago we drove through Quneitra, seeing the remains of the damage done by the Israeli army 50 years ago on display. … Read more

06. Al Quneitra

The main target today is Al Quneitra, the main town on the Syrian side of the Golan Heights. But first we drive all the way to the end, to the village of Ain Altinah – the end of the Syrian part of the Golan Heights; that is, the Israeli-administered part is across from a 200 … Read more