We spent some one-and-a-half weeks in Serbia, somewhat longer than we had anticipated beforehand. You like a place, you stay a little longer. And Serbia did not disappoint, in general. Belgrade and Subotica were highlights, as were the several Orthodox monasteries and their frescos – the multitude of frescos inside -, even though one may … Read more
The Crna Reka Monastery is unique amongst the Serbian Orthodox monasteries in that is consists largely of rock-hewn rooms connected by narrow stairs and passage ways. Nothing like the big complexes we have seen elsewhere, in Zico and in Studenica. Also, they are a lot less hung up about taking pictures inside, which gives me … Read more
Just because they are so rare, on account of not being allowed to take photographs inside the church of the Zico monastery, I share a few more of the pictures. They show the richness of the frescoes, and what a pity it is that these are not more widely available to see for everybody. More … Read more
Before exploring some of the fabulous Serbian Orthodox monasteries we had intended to visit the Maglič Fortress, one of Serbia’s best-preserved medieval fortifications. Built in the 13th century to protect the nearby Studenica and Žiča monasteries, its 2m-thick defensive walls with seven towers and a 20m-high keep stand on a ridge high above the Ibar … Read more
We had come to Mokra Gore, all the way in the west of Serbia, to ride the Sargant Eight railway, the narrow gauge railway that connected Belgrade with Sarajevo for 50 years, from 1925 to 1974. It no longer does, of course, and the refurbished section which is now the main tourist attraction of the … Read more
Šumarice Memorial Park On the way to Mokra Gora, where we hope to ride the Sargan Eight railway, we pass two of Serbia’s most important monuments. One is the Šumarice Memorial Park, near Kragujevac. The park is home to a sombre museum that tells the harrowing story of the 1941 massacre of around 3000 civilians … Read more
The Castle We have left Belgrade behind, but we will be seeing the Dunav – the Danube – one more time on this trip, at the Golubac Fortress. This is a fabulous castle, located at the place where the Dunav changes from what looks like a wide lake into a rather narrow gorge, ultimately ending … Read more
The Zepter Gallery in Belgrade was founded in 1994 by Mrs. Madlena Zepter, married to Philip Zetler, president of the Zepter International Group, a privately owned Swiss-based multinational company producing kitchen utensils. So now you now where the money comes from, Mrs. Zepter is a patron of the arts, as founder of a private Opera … Read more
There is this part of Belgrade that doesn’t get to the tourists guides, or promotional websites. Because it is considered not very pretty. I beg to differ. I love the Brutalist architecture that originated after WW II, in socialist countries that needed to build houses quickly, without too much consideration for people’s choices and preferences. … Read more
Open a guide book, or a tourist website, and nobody is extremely enthusiastic about Belgrade. It is not a pretty city, there is little cohesion between its building styles, its city plan is a bit chaotic. But everybody agrees it does have a special vibe, and clearly shows joie de vivre. It is a bit … Read more