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47. Charaideo

Blog entries
We keep what we think is going to be the absolute highlight for last. There are some 386 moidans – burial mounds – in 137 locations in what used to be the Ahom kingdom along the Brahmaputra river in Assam.  The most important of those, of the Ahom royals – recently recognised as a UNESCO [...]
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46. Sivasagar

Blog entries, Locations
We backtrack from Kaziranga east again, along the Assam Trunk Road. In places this is a two-lane road – which, as so often in India, is being used as three-lane, at least, and with involvement of motorbikes and tuktuk easily four-lane. In other places it is a proper four-lane motorway, with separation in the middle. [...]
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45. Kaziranga

Blog entries, Locations
Tawang may have been touristic, and the Ziro Valley, and Majuli. But with Kaziranga National Park we have reached a new dimension. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this game reserve is especially known for it being the only place in the world for the one-horned rhinoceros. And there are quite a lot of them, together [...]
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44. Numaligarh

Blog entries, Locations
Back on tierra firma, having arrived at the Nimati Ghat on the south bank of the Brahmaputra by much larger ferry, we soon hit the Assam Trunk Road, the main east-west throughfare. It is Sunday, which seems to be special market day par excellence. We first reach the general market at Roschuc (?), a rather [...]
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43. the mask makers

Blog entries
The craft of mask making was established in the 15th or 16th C, when the monks of the satras on Majuli felt the need to connect to the masses. They did this through theatrical performances, whereby masks were worn to represent mythical characters. The tradition has been kept alive, and today there are four satras [...]
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42. the pottery village

Blog entries
I have seen village pottery making before, on my travels. But never was I so fascinated by the process as here in Falmora, a specialist pottery village on Majuli Island. Especially the bakery of the pots is great. On a small hill, a mountain of pots is created by stacking larger and smaller pots densely [...]
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41. Majuli

Blog entries, Locations
Majuli is the biggest riverine island in the world (although there is some competition with an island in Brazil, depending on exact definitions). But the question is, for how long? At the beginning of the 20th Century the size of the island was over 1200 km2, which has reduced to under 400 km now, due [...]
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40. the ferry

Blog entries
There is no bridge to Majuli, the island where we are heading. Not yet, but the traces of construction are everywhere, from the construction of a new, much wider road, to the pillars that will support the bridge in the future. But for the time being the only way to cross to Majuli is by [...]
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39. the tea plantation

Blog entries
Five minutes into Assam – which indeed is well known for its tea – we stumble upon the Dejoo tea estate. And not only that, the plucking is in full swing, and literally hundreds of women, only women, are moving in between the tea bushes to harvest the top leaves. It is exactly what you [...]
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38. to Majuli

Blog entries
We leave Arunachal Pradesh behind, and return to Assam, and the plains dominated by the Brahmaputra. The descent goes via the Ranganadi dam, in the river of the same name, and then on a relatively small road, which more or less follows the Ranganadi down. Verdant green, jungle-like vegetation, lots of bananas again, and very [...]
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