a boatman at the floating vegetable market near Barishal
(you have learned by now, that I have very little discipline when it comes to select photos, so brace yourself, again.) We leave the north behind, and now move to the south of Bangladesh, first the SW corner, essentially the main part of the huge delta.
We were supposed to take an overnight boat from Dhaka to Barishal, an adventure in itself, and something I had been looking forward to. Unfortunately, the boat that we had been booked on wasn’t going anywhere anymore, apparently because the company running it was liaised with the wrong political party, and thus was now blocked from operating. That is how things works here.
this is the Padma Bridge, with 6.15 km the longest bridge in Bangladesh, on the way to Barishal
So instead, we had a long drive to Barishal. Worse, part of the driving we did in the dark, a frightening experience. It is the usual chaos on the road – two lanes but that is irrelevant -, but now with all kinds of lights, from the triple head lamps with blinding, high beams, to the small tuk-tuks that only have some small lights on the side. Not to speak of those, like the rickshas, that have no light at all, and those that only switch on their lights at the last minute, to save energy. The fact that it is dark is no reason to reduce speed, of course.
Anyhow, we made it, arriving pretty late. And because we were leaving again at 5 AM the next morning, we didn’t see a lot from Barishal itself.
early morning scene outside Barishal, seen from our own boat
another early morning encounter
local village slowly waking up
The floating market
Which was also not the purpose of coming all the way here, of course. The main attraction is the floating market at Banadipara, somewhat out of town, and the reason to leave so early is to make sure we still see it operating, before it winds down at about 8 AM. We first need to drive for almost an hour, over small country roads, and then board a flat boat, which takes another hour or so, to reach the market. And along the way through all kinds of small channels, the village life that slowly starts up: people brushing their teeth, in the river, the first batches of laundry being done, in the river. People going to work, over rickety bridges built across the river.
one of the many bamboo bridges
doing the dishes, after breakfast
not every house along the river is equally robust
more dishes being done
approaching the floating market, still early morning
the cauliflower man
one of the market sellers, or buyers
another market stall, floating
The market is great. Perhaps not as colourful, neither as chaotic, as we have seen in Vietnam, but this may be a function of the availability of fruits and vegetables, perhaps not the best season. But watching the low boats, some with just six pumpkins, others with an enormous stack of cauliflowers, making their way through the canal, trading in the process, is fun. Even though it is still hazy, early morning, and the sun hasn’t fully risen yet. Even though there are no women, who would normally add extra colour to markets. The men are characteristic enough, with their orange beards, and their boating skills.
and bananas, there are always bananas
a canoo coming to the jetty
and this is another good view of the fairly chaotic market
a window outside the village
We get off at Banadipara, and we wander around a bit, through the village and then outside, through the countryside. Which is all very peaceful. And then we get back on to the boat again, and continue our trip, plop-plop. Equally peaceful, super relaxed, and definitely a change from the long car ride the night before.
this man is selling his tomatoes onshore
and this guy is selling potent pain killer
made from scorpions, here present as proof
here the earth has been covered with mud, as fertiliser
and the early morning sun in the jungle, just outside the village
back on our own boat, traffic jam because of a sunken wood transport
the wood boats are colourful, at least
house on stilts, a fairly simple house indeed
it has become time for laundry, now
buildings in a bigger town we pass
and a jetty, same place
man at work, not sure what he is doing
this is how the wood is being transported, on top and tied next to the boat
The wood market
the wood market village
During the morning we have seen many boats, small and big, carrying wood, often in the form of big logs. When we get to one of the main river channels of the delta, the Katcha river (I think), we see them back, or some of them. The logs, I mean, because here is an enormous wood market, where on one side the river the boats offload their cargo on the bank, amidst enormous amounts of other logs; many neatly grouped together, as in this pile belongs to one specific owner. Who is hoping to sell his batch to the building companies, furniture companies and other wood manufacturing companies. A fascinating scene, which I have never seen before.
the wood market, boats in the back for colour
more batches of wood
ready for sale to the carpenter
the shipyard, where local boats are being repaired
On the other side of the river are the ship yards, where several ships are pulled high up the shore, for maintenance, I presume. Here is suddenly the colour we have so badly missed on the floating market, and amongst the logs. And it gets even better, in colour terms. A little further are several nurseries – the plant raising type -, with lots of their plants already flowering. No tulips, perhaps, but infinitely better than the tulip garden of a few days ago!
more repairs, on the water
where they even have sun flowers, admittedly still pretty small
collective fishing in a side stream
the plants nursery
the brick factory we visit
The brick factory
the drying, not yet baked bricks
and in the distance the oven
Our last stop is a brick factory, of the type we have seen so many times already driving. Here we follow the entire process, from preparing the material to making the brick shapes with a mould, drying them in the sun (for a week), before placing them in the oven, apparently for up to three weeks. We shake hands with the manager – one of the few people who doesn’t want a selfie with us -, and we can more or less freely wander around the complex, photographing everybody, and every part of the process. And everyone is, once again, so nice.
part of the mixer, that produces the right substance of mud for the bricks
brick transport
and here the nex bricks are being built up, to get baked later
a more efficient way of transport
the bow of the boat
In the end we spent some six hours touring the various waterways, plop-plop and visiting the various businesses of the area. Really pleasant, there are worse ways to spend your time.
next: Khulna and the Sundarbans
and the ferry that crosses the Katcha river (I think)
one of our group has a drone, and was kind enough to provide this picture, shipyard at the bottom, wood market at the top (courtesy Harris Legome)
