the front of the San Rafael glacier

From Puerto Chacabuco one can book a boat tour to the San Rafael Lake and Glacier, a full day affair. We are a bit uncertain about the idea, because the tour is not cheap, and there is no refund should the trip be cancelled. The weather forecast is 100% rain. But then, when else do you get the opportunity to go to the base of a glacier without serious mountaineering, in a comfortable seat, instead, on board of a well-stocked catamaran?

from Puerto Chacabuco it is some 200 km west and south through the fjords, to the mouth of the glacier, the pinkish spot in the left lower corner

on the way, almost entering the Lago San Rafael

So we boarded the boat, at around 8 am, for a five hour one way journey to Laguna San Rafael, which was filled with floating ice blocks of varying size, and to the San Rafael glacier at the far end of the Laguna. With breakfast and lunch served on the way, and whenever the weather permitted, a view from the outside platform, enjoying the fjord landscape. The 100% rain turned out to be 100% chance that it will rain, but not that it would do so permanently.

the lake, with lots of ice blocks floating, that have broken off the glacier

they are quite sizable

random shaped

some tall, some flat

and deep-blue in colour

our first glimp of the glacier

And indeed, on approaching the glacier we had a dry spell, even some sunshine, and this is how it stayed for quite a while. Except that when it was our turn for the zodiac excursion to the base of the glacier, the captain determined that the weather had deteriorated such that it had become too dangerous. I hadn’t noticed any changes, but the captain’s word is the law. – personally, I think he thought the whole thing took too long, and he wanted to get home in time.  As compensation, we were allowed five minutes on the bridge, whilst the catamaran was getting as close as the captain thought responsible. Which was pretty close, in fact.

and the glacier in full width

and then the rain threatens

and obscures the view in minutes – same location, he

the ice expedition, collecting glacier ice for the drinks later

this one is still to big to fit the glass

an early group assembles in the Zodiac

for a look up close, at the glacier

sometimes the weather turns, quickly, like a moment of snow and hail minutes after bright sunshine

we were obviously not as well equiped as this young lady was

as our Zodiac excursion is cancelled because of deteriorating weather, we are invited on the bridge, instead

whilst the captain tries to get as close as possible to the glacier

and he does get close, indeed

so close to observe the surface of the glacier in some detail

just to late to capture an ice block falling off, only the resulting cloud of water is still visible

at this intriguing ice cave, in the middle of the glacier

ah, and the obligatory selfie

before we can finally enjoy a whisky on the million-year-old rocks

And then we turned around, made the five hour journey back, treated to more food and drink. Amongst which was a whisky with thousand-year old ice cubes cut from the glacier that afternoon, by the first zodiac trip. Perhaps. Great trip, though!

next: Coyhaique

the long way back is coloured by a beautiful rainbow

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