To get to Futaleufu, we first follow the Carretera Austral further south. The clouds are slowly clearing, and once the sun is out, we enjoy another spectacular view of the mountains. At one stage the entire Cordillera is visible, with snowy peaks as far as the eye can see. The local people keep on telling us how unusual this weather is.
Apart from the Cordilera peaks, there are high mountains on the west side, as well. They contain ‘ventisqueros’, translated as snowdrift: it looks a bit like a glacier, high up the mountain. The first one is Ventisquero El Trono, locally referred to as the Devil’s Chair, another one is what is called the Yelcho ‘ventisquero’, right above the lake with the same name.
After a while we then turn east, into the mountains, and from the comfortable tarmac onto ripio. Into the wide valley that leads, past Lago Lonconao and further up the Rio Espolon, to Futaleufu, another small town just 10 kilometres away from the Argentine border. The town is nothing special, just a few blocks with wooden houses, a bank and a supermarket. And several shops selling outdoor equipment; in January and February this is another touristic hotspot, for trekking, kayaking and white water rafting. We encounter some of those rapids, at the Puente Gelvez just east of town, and we admire the crags that spike out of the Cerro Conico, another border demarcation point.
For the time being the town is still pretty sleepy, here. But the drive up was nice enough.
next: La Junta














