the ‘considerable’ town of Chaiten
In fact Chaiten is lovely. Nothing like a considerable town, it is a small village instead. Badly destroyed by a completely unexpected volcanic eruption in 2008 – the volcano with the same name as the town, 10 km north. But built back, spaciously, all wooden houses. Of which one is a pleasant B&B, and another perhaps the best fresh fish restaurant of the trip so far. King crab, and Congrio, a fabulous local fish.
no more than a small village, dominated by wooden houses
We visit the museum, which is dedicated to volcanism and the 2008 eruption. A passionate geologist tells us, and a group of German tourists, what exactly happened with the eruption, and why, because of a western wind, it initially didn’t affect Chaiten much. But a second one then brought lots of ashes and heavier material down the river, which clogged up such that the water needed to find another exit, right through town. Which then demolished the small fishing harbour, and deposited a huge amount of volcanic material offshore. And created what is now Chaiten beach, where earlier there was none. Impressive process!
the entrance to the museum
display in the museum, of before and after the eruption: the extra channel that the river forced through the main street is clearly visible, as well as its effect offshore (right photo)
and this is how it looks in real life, a beach where there was none before
the only fishing boat left, in a small side channel
and one of the roads near theof cemeteries.
cemetery
house on the way to Chaiten Viejo, old Chaiten
the entrance to the cemetery
and an orderly row of graves
the tomb of one of the settlers from 1921
being one of the Oyarzun family, one of three settlers – the others, and their families, are also burried here
and several crosses overgrown with moss
and a wooden cross from 1967
Outside Chaiten is the cemetery of Chaiten Viejo, old Chaiten, where the families of the three founders of the village have been buried. They came from Chiloe, the island at the other side of the fjord, in 1921, relatively late – but that goes to show that the south of Chile has been a remote area for a long time. Some of the graves are very old, metal crosses overgrown by moss, others are as recent as 2024. It is a small plot, but with its own atmosphere – I am a sucker for this type of cemeteries.
some very simple graves
this is the bay near the cemetery
The cemetery is close to the mouth of the river, and the beach. Fishing boats have been pulled up on the sand, but on a Sunday morning there is very little activity. Yet, Chaiten is a great place, we love it here. And it is only the first of the towns and villages along the Carretera Austral.
next: on to Futaleufu
result of a more gradual process than the eruption, I think
fishing boats pulled up the sand, at low tide
a fabulous crab dish in the local restaurant, considering the amount of meat, most likely with two legs
