Those locals who claim that, if it rains, it only rains briefly, were wrong. The next two days it continues to rain, incessantly. We make our way back, up north along the Carretera, back to Puyuhuapi, back to Chaiten, and back onto the ferry to Hornopiren. Glad we have seen this stretch of the road earlier, because now there is not much to see at all. And we do feel for the many cyclists we meet, along the way and in the guesthouses where we stay. Cycling with beautiful weather is one thing, but in this constant downpour you must be quite determined. Luckily, most are, even though they occasionally use the bus stops to shield from the rain.

the rain of the past few days has created lots of excess water in waterfalls that hardly existed a week ago
It clears up a bit by the time we get off the ferry. We find accommodation in Contao, a small village on the edge of a fjord, from where we explore the coastal road, passing through fishing villages like Tentelhue and Queten. Much of the road is actually sheltered from the sea by bushes, making it somewhat difficult to appreciate the views, but there are enough spots in between to enjoy the beach, and occasionally the dolphins cruising just offshore – taking pictures of them proves more difficult, as each time they surface we seem to be just too late!
From Contao, which is close to where we first reached the Carretera Austral, we continue further north, on another ferry – less than half an hour, this time – to reach Puerto Montt, technically the beginning of the Carretera. This last, or, if you like, first bit of the road is significantly busier than the parts further south, more prosperous, too. Not surprising, if for anything you bring to or from further south, you need a string of ferries to do so.
next: Puerto Montt

















