Akhtala Monastery

Also along the Debed Gorge, a short distance away from the Sanahin and Haghpat Monasteries, is the newer Akhtala Monastery, probably built between 1212 and 1250, although there has been an earlier 10th C structure here, too – quite likely as part of a fortress. The main feature here, besides its once again spectacular location, … Read more

Haghpat Monastery

One of the two UNESCO-listed monasteries along the Debed Gorge in NE Armenia, Haghpat Monastery (Haghpat means ‘huge wall’, the one surrounding the complex, presumably) is the nicer of the two. The main church, Church of the Holy Cross, was built between 976 and 991, at the behest of Queen Koshrovanush, the wife of then-King … Read more

Sanahin Monastery

The second UNESCO World Heritage list monastery in the Debed Gorge in Armenia, after Haghpat (which is nearby), is the Sanahin Monastery, apparently meaning ‘older than the other’ – a reference to the Haghpat Monastery. Like Haghpat, Sanahin was also initiated by Queen Koshrovanush, this one probably in 966, on a site which already contained … Read more

21. the Debed Gorge

In the Debed Gorge, in the northeast of Armenia, we admire yet more monasteries and churches, but also some characteristic Soviet remnants. So far the landscape has been pretty dry – what do you expect, in August with 30+ degrees? -, but towards the northeast of Armenia, things change. Well, sort of. It begins with … Read more

20. Gyumri

More churches and monasteries on the road to Gyumbri, which is an unexpectedly nice town. Our road to Gyumri rounds the slopes of Aragats, Armenia’s highest mountain, counter-clockwise. The mountain itself is, in fact, not that spectacular, a few peaks on top of a plateau, and so here and there what looks like patches of … Read more

Saghmosavank Monastery

Here again, vank already means monastery, and Saghmosavank means the Monastery of Psalms. Like Hovhannavank, this monastery is also located at the edge of the Kasagh River canyon, north of the town of Ashtarak. And like the bulk of Hovhannavank, it was also constructed in the 13th Century, from similar materials. Interestingly, the entrance to … Read more

Hovhannavank Monastery

Actually, vank already means monastery in Armenian, but not everybody speaks the language. Hovhannavank is the Monastery of John, and is located north of Ashtarak, at the edge of the Kasakh Gorge, quite a spectacular setting. In the distance one can just about make out that other monastery at the gorge, Saghmosavank. Hovhannavank is the … Read more

19. Ashtarak

Outside Yerevan, braise yourself for the many churches and monasteries, that are in the program! We start in the area around Ashtarak, where we find a variety of construction types, not only churches. We have secured wheels again, for the next two weeks. Not a large 4×4 monster, not really necessary on the Armenian roads … Read more

13. Vardzia

The cave monastery in Vardzia is one of the main attractions in Georgia, not in the least because of the beautiful frescos in the rock-church of the Assumption. Having come from the coast and the Adjara region, and across the Goderji pass, the countryside has changed dramatically. No more lush green hills, but dry mountains, … Read more

04. to Svaneti (1)

On the way to Svaneti, one of the high mountain areas in Georgia, we visit some of the country’s most famous churches and monasteries, as well as the lovely, uncomplicated Oni museum. One of Georgia’s unruliest ethnic groups are the Svans, inhabitants of the region Svaneti, high up in the Caucasus. They have a not … Read more