We have lots of plans for the rest of Croatia, on our way home. But we are running out of time, because in the end we spent quite a few more days than planned in several of the towns we have been to, not in the least because of our newly-discovered fascination with brutalist architecture. We also have some unfinished business left in the NW of Slovenia, where we fled from the rain at the start of our trip. So we decide to skip the Istria peninsula, with its picturesque towns, more churches and Roman remains. And head back to Slovenia, instead.
The Bear Sanctuary
On the way, we pass through the Kuterevo bear sanctuary, a lovely place full of volunteers, who look after bears rescued from captivity – you know, people who held a bear for fun, or for commercial gains. Or young bears whose mothers got shot as part of the annual quota of 120 bears that Croatia allows to be shot, no doubt for good money (that is unlikely to make its way to the sanctuary, I suspect). It is a wonderful place, with a number of extensive holding pens where a total of eight bears roam around, relatively freely. And those bears, such cuddly animals, you would almost hug them, if there hadn’t been a serious fence between them and us!
The Coast
From Kuterovo we drive to the coast, which provides spectacular views of the islands in front, the biggest one being Krk. Along the coast there is still substantial vegetation, but the coast-facing side of the islands is entirely barren, starkly contrasting with the azure blue waters of the Adriatic here. The Nehaj Castle, in the small coastal town of Senj, is not more than a solid stone cube, tastefully restored, but its ramparts offer another great view of the islands, as well as over the roofs of the town.
next: to Slovenia, to the Postojna Cave
