some of the buildings of the Tawang monastery
Except that there turns out to be another road to Tawang. Since a few years, there is also a Sela tunnel. And the tunnel is open. Until now, that had not been worth mentioning.
So after having come down a bit from the road to the pass, which we found closed, we take a turn and start ascending again. To reach the tunnel, without any issues, in another hour, or so. Only to drive straight into the clouds, on the other side. Which stay with us, for most of the road down to Tawang, where we, once again, arrive at seven pm, in the dark. Another long day. And it is so cold!
entry to the Sela tunnel, an unexpected solution to our problem
outside the tunnel, the fog reigns
and off the road there is plenty of snow, still
a rare moment of clearing shows part of the Sela Peak
Tawang is surrounded by snow-covered mountains
the Tawang monastery in its full glory, a little village in itself
But the next morning the sun shines brightly. We are surrounded by high mountains, most of them fully covered with snow. Clouds are moving in and out around the tops, which provide a spectacular background.
The Monastery
We make our way to the monastery, which was founded in 1680, at the orders of the 5th Dalai Lama. Originally, the monastery was under Tibetan rule, however, in a 1914 treaty Tibet gave up control over quite a bit of territory, including the Tawang Valley and the monastery, to the British. More about this later….
The monastery is really a collection of buildings surrounded by a high wall. Some are learning institutions, others are living accommodation; the whole complex is just a small village, with narrow alleys, where only the shops are lacking. Children, dressed in dark-red robes, rush up the stairs to get to school, presumably. And it looks that the monks have just acquired a new vehicle, which is proudly shown off in the central square.
prayer wheels at the entrance of the monastery
the road along the monastery, past some of the accomodation buildings
white-washed, and with window covers
one of the narrow alleys inside the monstary compound
the monks showing off their new car, in front of the main temple
the senior monk we met, happy to chat about his carreer
The buildings are painted white, with a little cloth over the top of the windows, against the sun. The centre piece, of course, is the main temple, this one built in 1860, and extensively refurbished in 2002. It is an impressive building with lots of gold decoration, not different from what we experienced in Tibet, and in Ladakh, in NW India. Inside are the long, low benches, in between colourful pillars that have been extensively decorated. The front of the temple contains several Buddha sculptures, and a cut-out cardboard picture of the Dalai Lama.
We wander around the complex a bit more, and get to talk to a monk who calls himself a Senior. He tells us that he arrived in the monastery in 1977, nine years old. And has been here all the time. As one of the approximately 560 monks that have dedicated their lives to the monastery. Amazing, that this still exists.
inside the Buddhist temple, including the cut-out of the Dalai Lama in the middle
the main temple from another corner, with basic seating arrangements
the giant Buddha, looking out over town
next to some roof stupas, framed against the mountains
The Other Sites
After the monastery we visit the giant Buddha, and this is indeed a very large sculpture, looking out over town. The small temple inside is less impressive than that of the monastery, naturally, but supports some more phantastic Buddha images. And another cardboard Dalai Lama.
one of the mythical characters at the entrance to the small temple
inside the small temple, some tacky deities – at least that is how we would interpret this
and always candles, in every temple again
prayer flags outside the giant Buddha site
a dedorated door of one of the many temples in town
and this one, yet another temple, with a Buddha in each of the small niches
the house of the Dalai Lama in Tawang
Next is the Dalai Lama’s house; apparently, he has a house in Tawang, and it is a nice place. Yet, he has only visited twice, in 2009 and again in 2017, because of the sensitivity towards China. Inside is a room with the paintings of all the previous Dalai Lamas, since the late 14th Century, I think. And an image of the current one, of course – but this time a proper image, not a cardboard cut-out.
a door at the Dalai Lama’s house
complete with prayer wheels, of course
and inside the images of all the past Dalai Lamas, and the present one
Tawang city is not the most exciting place on earth
the merchandise reflects the temperatures we had to endure!
The Town
Tawang breathes Buddhism. Everywhere we have been so far in Arunachal Pradesh Buddhism is visible, in the prayer flags, in individual stupas in memory of deceased people along the road, in temples and Buddha images in towns, or sometimes in the middle of nowhere, high up a mountain slope. But Tawang beats it all, you see its presence all around. Yet, there are a few more things to do in town.
And one of them is the War Monument.
like this lady, with her hat
yet, lots of individual characters in town
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