17. the verdict

Is it worthwhile visiting Turkmenistan, admittedly not the most touristic country in the world? Obviously, it depends on what you want to achieve, but for most people it probably isn’t. Most of the places on our itinerary weren’t that impressive, there are better canyons, better deserts, better mountain villages and better lakes at the bottom … Read more

04. Ashgabat

Our first day consists of a bus tour through Ashgabat, with the occasional stops. I had been prepared, but the initial impression of the city is still one of complete amazement, unreal. Wide avenues, with two times four lanes, are lined with white marble apartment buildings, where, apparently, ‘the elite’ is living – dixit our … Read more

02. a brief history of Turkmenistan

I am aware that Turkmenistan is not the most obvious travel destination for most. But perhaps that is just one of the things that appeal to us, it is utterly non-touristic. And for a reason, of course: 70% of the country consists of the Karakum desert, the dryest desert on earth. It is also a … Read more

01. the missing ‘Stan’

In 2015 we travelled through the so-called ‘Stans’, the name given to the old Soviet Republics in Central Asia. We spent six weeks on a loop from Uzbekistan through Kyrgyzstan, with a sidetrip to Almaty in Kazakhstan, and then back through Tajikistan. We omitted Turkmenistan, because at the time you would only receive a three-day … Read more

46. looking back

Some impressions and observations that haven’t been covered yet, during our Central Asia trip

45. the way back

The end of the journey, to Tashkent and back to Europe across the Kyzyl Kum desert

44. Istaravshan

Back in the lowlands, Istaravshan is a pleasant town, with mosques and markets, and with our own palati experience

43. Penjikent

The area around Penjikent is home to two ancient cities, and, from the looks of it, an even older winery

42. the tunnel

The Anzob tunnel, on the road between Tajikistan’s two main cities, is a nightmare; I show some video footage of the experience

41. Dushanbe

Tajikistan’s attractive capital is booming and well looked-after, unlike so many other Central Asian cities, with a pleasant tree-shaded centre and lots of construction in its outskirts