canoe in the ropes in one of the fishing communities of Sibolga

canoe in the ropes in one of the fishing communities of Sibolga

Fishing village and ferry port on the Westcoast of Sumatra, with several amazing communities built on stilts

There is not much to say about Sibolga, except that it is the main port for ferries to Pulau Nias. No tourist guide finds anything positive to say about the town, but I beg to disagree. On both ends of town, north and south, there are sizable fishing communities that have built their houses way into the sea. An intricate patterns of walkways connects the houses on stilts, and the many drying platforms for fish, whilst further offshore nets and impressive fishing boats dominate the horizon. Attractive enough for a couple of hours’ stroll – nobody seems to mind.

As there is little to say, a photo essay, instead:

Sibolga from high up in the mountains, before the steep drop down

Sibolga from high up in the mountains, before the steep drop down

 

 

The road to Sibolga crosses the mountains, before a steep descent to the coast. From a distance, the place looks pretty.

 

 

 

walkway in between houses on stilts

walkway in between houses on stilts

not everywhere in the village things are very organised

not everywhere in the village things are very organised

lots of plastic containers for all sorts of fish

lots of plastic containers for all sorts of fish

the boys of Sibolga

the boys of Sibolga

 

 

 

The village on stilts: the fishing communities at the fringes of the town have built extensive walkways connecting their houses, a long way into the sea. This is where they live, day and night, hardly ever firm ground under their feet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Children are everywhere, here a group pf proud boys showing off their toys.

a jetty to access the fishing boats

a jetty to access the fishing boats

area to dry fish, and perhaps organise the auctions?

area to dry fish, and perhaps organise the auctions?

 

 

Past the houses, on the seaside, are extensive jetties to reach the fishing boats, and also to facilitate the drying of the catch, on large tables. Or maybe these areas also the areas where the fish auction is being held, early morning?

 

fish drying

fish drying

a small canoe

a small canoe

Everywhere in the village are tables where fish is being dried. Dried fish being a major staple in the Indonesian diet.

A canoe, moored in the harbour, used to pull nets.

 

Houses, including boat houses, on stilts, extending far offshore. And also offshore, what looks like the fish auction, probably busy in the morning.

rows of houses strech offshore

rows of houses strech offshore

fish market pavilion

fish market pavilion

fish drying structures, now being used for baskets

fish drying structures, now being used for baskets

the baskets

the baskets

 

 

These look like huge, very long tables, perhaps to dry fish, or sell it. The baskets have been stalled here, or perhaps they belong.

nets to contain the catch (?)

nets to contain the catch (?)

Nets in between bamboo poles, perhaps used to contain thye catch, keep them alive until the next auction?

large fishing vessel offshore

large fishing vessel offshore

One of the large fishing boats, many of which are moored offshore.

 

A supply boat on its way to the fishing platforms offshore, somewhat rickety structures where people overnight to manage the nets streched below.

lots of fishing platforms, further offshore

lots of fishing platforms, further offshore

buckets of fish in the market

buckets of fish in the market

Market town at the far end of Lake Toba

Balige is situated at the far end, the SE, of Lake Toba. It is a fairly large town, not much to do, except for visiting the huge market in the centre of town. Much of the town is still built of wooden houses, yet, relative affluence is demonstrated by the large number of not-so-humble satellite dishes for television reception in town.

the market in Balige

the market in Balige

woman sorting chillie peppers

woman sorting chillie peppers

as everywhere in Indonesia, dried fish is an important staple

as everywhere in Indonesia, dried fish is an important staple

Balige house, and laundry

Balige house, and laundry

TV is an important medium, obviously

TV is an important medium, obviously

the public transport in town is by a luxury version of the becak

the public transport in town is by a luxury version of the becak

Balige is sitiuated at the end of Lake Toba

Balige is sitiuated at the end of Lake Toba

corn harvesting time

corn harvesting time

string of traditional houses in Jangga

string of traditional houses in Jangga

Jangga is a fairly touristic Batak village, but in a beautiful setting

other villages, near jangga, are also full of traditional houses

other villages, near Jangga, are also full of traditional houses

The village of Jangga is another Batak settlement, situated in the vicinity of Lake Toba. The village itself is not very special, although there are plenty of traditional houses, and an active tourist industry centered around the weaving of ulos, colourful cloths not unlike the ikats in other parts of Indonesia, but here worn for ceremonies. The surroundings of Jangga are beautiful, verdant green Sumatran landscape.

a village in the vicinity of Jangga

a village in the vicinity of Jangga

the rice paddy and mountain setting near Jangga

the rice paddy and mountain setting near Jangga

farmer outside Jangga

farmer outside Jangga, working the paddies

one of the houses, with overhanging roof

one of the houses, with overhanging roof

the ulos, locally woven cloths, on display

the ulos, locally woven cloths, on display

the beams of the houses are intricately decorated

the beams of the houses are intricately decorated

rice paddies in Sumatra

rice paddies in Sumatra

colourful fishing jetty in Lake Toba

colourful fishing jetty in Lake Toba

A somewhat overrated tourist destination, but there are several cute villages with traditional architecture and a stone cemetery cult

The major tourist attraction in Sumatra is without doubt Lake Toba, a crater lake formed by a massive volcanic eruption some 80,000 years ago. This was followed by more volcanic activity, which created the island inside the lake, Samosir. And that is really what Lake Toba is all about.

My initial impression was disappointment, in the bad weather the lake was by far not as spectacular as the guide books make you believe, but the next day, with a clear sky and an early morning sun, the lake was indeed beautiful, steep mountains surrounding it. Samosir supports just a handful of villages and only a rudimentary road system. The way to explore is on foot or by bicycle; cycling on Samosir is not particularly stressful, everything is close, and there are so many reasons to get off the bike and take pictures that you never cycle for more than 10 minutes at the time – at least I didn’t.

more fishing structures inside the lake

more fishing structures inside the lake

stone sculpture in the royal cemetery

Tomok

Most tourism infrastructure is in Tuk Tuk, a small peninsula where the majority of the ferries from Parapet at the opposite, “main land” side of the lake, arrive. From here, it is no more than half an hour cycling to Tomok. The road along the lake provides ample views of the fishing platforms, canoes etc. The village itself gains its notoriety for the kings that have been buried here, but unexpectedly, there was a lot more of interest, including a number of Batak houses – Toba Batak this time -, mostly with corrugated iron roofs these days, but the rest of the house is still made from solid wood, and intricately carved gable triangles. In fact there are traditional houses everywhere on the island, I realized later.

a traditional Toba Batak house on Samosir island

a traditional Toba Batak house on Samosir island

a circle of stone sculptures in the royal cemetary of Tomok

a circle of stone sculptures in the royal cemetery of Tomok

Back on the bicycle, Ambarita is on the other side of Tuktuk, reached through pretty countryside dominated by rice paddies and a steep mountain wall behind. The only mistake I made was trying to do this at 11 am, not even the hottest part of the day, but close. But then, the people in the rice fields were working even harder than I was doing, on my bike, and for much longer than the 20 minutes it took me to reach the next village.

man ploughing his paddies with water buffalos

man ploughing his paddies with water buffalos

two women repairing a wall between paddies

two women repairing a wall between paddies

a waterfall in the mountains

a waterfall in the mountains

Samosir countryside, paddies and steep mountains

Samosir countryside, paddies and steep mountains

bird near Ambarita village

Ambarita

Ambarita was a little disappointing after Tomok, but it does have it unique attraction, a number of stone chairs, possibly used as ancient – well 200 years old – court of law.

Riding back to Tuktuk, following the lake shore around the small peninsula, was delightful again, with the best views of the lake so far – as well as a sample of the accommodation of offer, and the selection of shops. Mixed business models seem the way to go here, having a hotel must be combined with a restaurant, and shops need to sell everything possible, soft drinks and alcohol as well as biscuits, souvenirs, blankets, woodcarvings and artifacts. They are clearly well prepared for tourism, here, it is just that it isn’t the best of times, now.

view of a hamlet near Tuk Tuk

view of a hamlet near Tuk Tuk

another hamlet, with a view, near Tuk Tuk

another hamlet, with a view, near Tuk Tuk

Lake Toba streching

Lake Toba streching

bird near Ambarita village

bird near Ambarita village

Small village containg the old court of law of the Toba bataks, in the form of a set of stone chairs

The small village of Ambarita is north of Tuk Tuk, on Samosir Island inside Lake Toba, the large lake on the even larger island of Sumatra. The village is known for its collection of Stone chairs, set in a circle and allegedly representing a 200 – or 300 – year old court of law, although others claim that the chiars are actualy a 50 year old copy of the original set up. Whatever the truth, it makes for a nice outing on Samosir, albeit a bit too touristic. Some photos to illustrate.

See also, Tomok on the same island, or return to Lake Toba.

Ambarita village houses

Ambarita village houses

traditional house in Ambarita

traditional house in Ambarita

triangle gable of an Ambarita house

triangle gable of a house

row of traditional houses in Ambarita

row of traditional houses in Ambarita

stone chairs, possibly the old court, in Ambarita

stone chairs, possibly the old court, in Ambarita

the "schandblok", Dutch for pillory, next to the stone chairs

the “schandblok”, Dutch for pillory, next to the stone chairs

fisherman working his nets

fisherman working his nets

canoes on the lake

canoes on the lake

stone sculpture in the royal cemetery

stone sculpture in the royal cemetery

Lakeside village with a market, traditional houses and a royal cemetery

Tomok is the village closest to Tuk Tuk, where most visitors to the island of Samosir, inside Indonesia’s largest lake, Lake Toba, arrive. It is a cute-enough village, with several traditional houses – albeit with corrugated iron roofs, these days. Further status is derived from its Royal cemetery, housing the sarcophagus of Raya Sidabutar, the first Toba Batak King to move to the island in the 19th century. A selection of photos.

See also, Ambarita on the same island, or return to Lake Toba.

the front gable of one of the Rumah Adats in Dokan

the front gable of one of the Rumah Adats in Dokan

Perhaps the nicest Karo Batak village in the area, with at least six fully operating Rumah Adats

Dokan is located a Little further from Berestagi, on the way to Lake Toba. It is a delightful villaje, not as touristic as some of the villages closer to Berestagi, and it has at least six Rumah Adats still in use. Great place for a morning stroll. A selection of photos.

Other Karo villages are Gurusinga & Linggatula and Lingga and Barusjahe & Desa Serdang, each entry with a few more pictures.

woman in red, Barusjahe

woman in red, Barusjahe

Two less accessable Karo villages near Berestagi, both pretty run-down in terms of architecture

Barusjahe is located SW of Berestagi, and can be reached by car. Nearby Desa Serdang suffers from a bridge collapse, and can thus only be reached walking. One is soon discovered by the village children, who find a bule – a foreigner – mightily interesting, worthy of following everywhere, but once they get bored, the village is in fact a wonderful place to wander around: friendly and hospitable people, as almost everywhere in Indonesia. A selection of photos.

See also Gurusinga & Linggatula and Lingga

woman and child near Gurusinga

woman and child near Gurusinga

Somewhat run-down Karo Batak villages south of Berestagi

I visited several of the Karo villages around Berestagi, Gurusinga and Linggatula amongst them. Not much to say about these places, except that many of the traditional houses, Rumah Adats – the reason I came here – are in a state of disrepair. Having said so, the traditional architecture is still being used, for instance in the new market building of Linggatula. Villagers are equally photogenic, and more colourful than the houses. A selection of photos.

See also Lingga and Barusjahe & Desa Serdang

the tourist information in Lingga, where you also pay the donation

the tourist information in Lingga, where you also pay the donation

The best-preserved of the Karo Batak villages near Berestagi

The best preserved of the Karo Batak villages around Berestagi is Lingga, where several of the Rumah Adats are in good condition, well maintained. The Karo villages suffered heavily in 1904, when the Dutch colonial power decided to extend their rule to the interior of Sumatra. In order to avoid the Rumah Adats falling in the hands of the Dutch, many were destroyed, by the Karo themselves, and only a few villages in this area were spared.

Visitors are expected to make a donation to the village, all well organised, and apparently indeed being used for the upkeep of the houses. A selection of photos.

See also Gurusinga & Linggatula and Barusjahe & Desa Serdang