Wanokaka

Locations
isolated house in the Wanokaka hills

isolated house in the Wanokaka hills

The Wanakoka area contains many attractive traditional villages, as well as white beaches and green pasola fields. Includes a virtual tour past several sites.

view of the Wanokaka area, along the river and the south coast

view of the Wanokaka area, along the river and the south coast

To the south of Waikabubak, stretching all the way to the coast and sporting some of the most beautiful beaches of Sumba, is the district of Wanakoka. There are no large towns here – large being relative, of course, there are in fact no really large towns in entire Sumba island -, but plenty of attractive traditional villages, all with their conical thatched roof houses and large tombs, yet each with their own characteristics, their own unique atmosphere.

roof decoration in Waigalli

roof decoration in Waigalli

and roof repairs in Praigoli

and roof repairs in Praigoli

Waigalli is very entrepreneurial, and villagers straight away get the stone and wood carvings out, stone still the limestone, although the village, other than so many others, is actually built on dark igneous rock that we haven’t seen earlier on Sumba – and which is obviously no good for carving. In Praigoli the villagers are all busy replacing the roof of one of the houses, a fascinating process, especially because the infallible precision with which some of the men manage to throw bunches of dried grass to those on the roof – they would probably do quite well in an American football team.

Not every village survives. Nearby Kampung Kadengar recently burned down by fire – apparently caused by kids cooking (but many fires are the result of lightning, into the tall, thatched roofs). Despite this having been the third time in living memory, or so I have been told, the villagers do intend to rebuilt the place, but are awaiting sufficient funds, and a big ceremony at an austere date – where no doubt a significant part of those funds will be burnt, figuratively in this case.

Interestingly, it also appears that some villages are, in fact, no-go area for some or another reason, and it remains unclear why exactly –but our guide is adamant we cannot go there. Tahu (?) village, for instance, looks a very attractive kampung, tightly packed together on a hill top, but according to our guide is off-limits. Sodo (?), another attractive village on a hill in the distance, can be visited, but with more time, perhaps a full day exercise.

Sodo village, on a distant hill

Sodo village, on a distant hill

a tomb on the Hobakala pasola field

a tomb on the Hobakala pasola field

the village and the laundry of Motodawu

the village and the laundry of Motodawu

A little further west is the Lamboya area, another district, or sub-district. This is where the Hobakala pasola field is, a vast stretch of land where one of the five or six annual mock-battles on horseback is being held in February or March. The Pasola is a ritual festival, by different sources attributed to celebrating the harvest, blessing the new rice growing season, or simply the recreation of an ancient fight between villages over the girl. The idea is to throw spears at the opposite team, and preferably draw some blood, which is supposed to fertilize the fields. The terrain comes complete with the stands, and in Hobakala also with tombs, right in the middle of the field, allegedly of people who didn’t survive the pasola – but possibly also tombs of important priests. It is December when we are here, too early for the pasola.

Of the several beaches we hit, Marusi beach, reputedly the nicest beach in South West Sumba is indeed a very nice place, but also favourite with the sand flies! The more lively beach is Wanokaka, where a river, or perhaps one of the channels of a delta, flows into the sea, creating a natural shelter for fishing boats. Many have been put on the beach, or a sand bank; others are actually doing something, fishing offshore. And with results, witness a fisherman cleaning his catch prior to bringing it by motorbike to the market in Waikabubak. Where he is not the only one!

 

For those really interested, below is the virtual tour, with a little more text, and many more photos, of the various attractions in the Wanokaka region. A link at the end of each entry takes you to the next.

 

fisherman ready to clean his catch off the beach of Wanakoka

Wanakoka Beach

decorated stone sculpture in the centre of Kampung Waigalli

Kampung Waigalli

The first village south of Waikabubak is Kampung Waigalli, a traditional village with a good arts and crafts collection, located just uphill from perhaps the nicest, and certainly the most active beach area, Wanokaka Beach, with lots of fisherman’s activity onshore and offshore.

 

 

community cooking during roof repairs in Praigoli

Kampung Praigoli

jetty sticking into the sea at Rua beach

Rua Beach

Praigoli, and its neighbour Waiwuli, and two other attractive kampungs in the Wanokaka hills, with actual roof building on display, and fabulous views. Downhill, once again, is Rua Beach, a rather abandoned place.

 

 

Motodawu village

Motodawu & Tokahale

lonely tomb on the pasola field of Hobakala

Hobakala

One of most famous Pasola fields in South Sumba is Hobakala, also providing spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. A little further on are the villages of Motodawu and Tokahale, almost next to each other on the same hill.

 

 

canoe at Marusi beach

Marusi Beach

the youngest inhabitants of Waruwora

Kampung Waruwora

The nicest beach of South Sumba in Marusi Beach, and with quite a surf. The last village of the virtual tour is Waruwora, admittedly a bit more of the same, but nice enough in its own right. And that ends the tour!

 

 

fish for transport to town

fish for transport to town

Bondomarotto

Locations
patong sculptures in Bondomarotto

patong sculptures in Bondomarotto

Kampung Bondomarotto and Kampung Gollu are two easily accessible, and very attractive, hamlets close to the main road

another interesting stone sculpture in Bondomarotto

another interesting stone sculpture in Bondomarotto

 

Kampung Bondomarotto and Kampung Gollu are next to each other, just past a large number of tombs along the road. Bondomarotto is reached by following the tarmac road steeply up. For some reason, a well-developed kampong, once again, with cemented walkways, and a visitor-book, to be sure. People here didn’t seem to take much notice of tourists, they just got on with whatever they were doing – or not doing, another characteristic of many of the kampungs, of course!

 

the Kampung itself

the Kampung itself

in the back are several moss-overgrown tombs

in the back are several moss-overgrown tomb

Kampung Gallo is flat, at the base of the hill

Kampung Gallo is flat, at the base of the hill

here bamboo decorations, not seen earlier

here bamboo decorations, not seen earlier

Interestingly, this is the only kampong whee I find several stone sculptures, all the way at the back of the village, adorning heavily mossed-over tomb stones.

one of the men of the village

one of the men of the village

and the children, who have taken over the tombs

and the children, who have taken over the tombs

Kampung Gollu is a small extension, it looks, down the hill, adjoining Bondomarotto. Standard lay-out, but with much more space in between the houses, thanks to the lack of rocky outcrop.

Gollu and Bondomarotto are really close to the main road, from where bemos travel the 4 kms back to Waikabubak.

woven bamboo baskets to store the rice

woven bamboo baskets to store the rice

Segarum

Locations
many houses have corrugated iron roofs, here

many houses have corrugated iron roofs, here

Kampung Segarum and Kampung Praikjowa are somewhat less attractive, but not less authentic, than the thatched roof kampungs of other hamlets

Kampung Segarum (?) and Kampung Praikjowa (?) – not sure about the exact spelling of the names – are close together, and both somewhat less attractive, and thus also less touristic: no visitor books are produced here. Yet, this goes to show that people are really living like this, everywhere around Waikabubak.

First is Kampung Praikjowa, at a junction immediately to the right. It has one traditional house with thatched roof, all the way to the right, and further a tomb-filled village square reached through the roots of a tree. The square is surrounded mostly by traditional houses, but here with corrugated tin roofs. As elsewhere, the houses are equally decorated with buffalo skulls and horns.

less picturesque, Kampung Paikjowa

less picturesque, Kampung Praikjowa

one of the women of Kampung Segarum

one of the women of Kampung Segarum

Kampung Segarum, at the junction to the left and to the right of the path, up the slope, is a mixture of tin-roofed and thatched-roofed traditional houses, once again surrounding some enormous tombs. At one end the tarmac road ends just below the walled compound – walled being a big word for the low stone wall that surrounds many kampungs, at the other end a steep path, part stairs part slippery stone, leads back to the road. Once again, very friendly people, and conversation is somewhat eased by Linu, who does speak a bit of English.

The last kampung covered on this virtual tour is Kampung Bondomarotto

impressively big tombs

impressively big tombs in Kampung Segarum

Praijiang

Locations
view of Kampung Praijiang

view of Kampung Praijiang

Attractive kampung distributed across several ridges

tombs outside Kampung Praijiang

tombs outside Kampung Praijiang

Kampung Praijiang is just a short walk, in western direction down the hill and up the next, from Prairami, and announces itself through a series of tombs at the bottom of the hill. The village is big, even with branches onto other ridges; much of the village floor, so to speak, is solid rock, limestone, in which rough steps have been hewn to resemble stairs, from one level to the next. Slippery, and tricky for those who, unlike the villagers, do not go bare feet. The village is used to tourists, and a visitor book is quickly produced. The best thing about Kampung Praijiang, however, is that the track that leads further west, outside the village, actually rises, allowing a fabulous view back from higher up.

the hill top Kampung Praijiang, stairs hewn out of the rocks

the hill top Kampung Praijiang, stairs hewn out of the rocks

more tombs and houses

more tombs and houses

Walking on west from Praijiang, along a good track, one soon hits a narrow tarmac road, at a junction. The road leading down, behind a group of tombs, is the road that ultimately leads south to Wanokaka; the road immediately to the right leads to Kampung Praikjowa, and to the left goes past Kampung Segarum (?) immediately right of the road, on a hill, and then further down to Kampung Bondomarotto and Kampung Gollu, and then on to the main Waingapu-Waikabubak road.

Prairami

Locations
stairs leading to Kampung Prairami

stairs leading to Kampung Prairami

Small kampung at the end of steep stairs

Kampung Prairami is east of Waikabubak: walking along the road in the direction of Waingapu, and then turning south/right after a few kilometers, one comes to steep stairs, overgrown with green mosses – inviting to climb up. Just to reach a rather small community, 8-10 houses, or so, mostly with thatched roofs but some corrugated tin, too. Very much like the other villages, very rural – we are well and truly outside Waikabubak town, here – and very friendly. One of the tombs is decorated with a stone sculpture.

the Kampung

the Kampung

stone carving in the center of the Kampung

stone carving in the center of the Kampung

Next is Kampung Praijiang (or jump to the end of the tour, Kampung Bondomarotto)

Waitabara

Locations
tomb with a cross in Kampung Waitabara

tomb with a cross in Kampung Waitabara

The extension of Kampung Tarung, equally well-developed

Kampung Waitabara is further along the rocky ridge that also contains Kampung Tarung– and is equally developed. Concrete walkways, satellite dishes, solar panels, and another visitor’s book.

overview of Kampung Waitabara

overview of Kampung Waitabara

The next series of kampungs are east of Waitabubak, starting with Kampung Prairami (or jump to the end of the tour, Kampung Bondomarotto)

 

here, too, verandah decoration

here, too, verandah decoration

sticks – the horns of the house – on the roof of one of the houses

sticks – the horns of the house – on the roof of one of the houses

one of the woman can’t help being surprised

one of the woman can’t help being surprised

Tarung

Locations
view of Kampung Tarung on the hill

view of Kampung Tarung on the hill

Well-developed and obviously important kampung at the edge of town.

overview of the kampung

overview of the kampung

I already mentioned Kampung Tarung. This settlement, at the edge of town, is visible from the road that runs from Kampung Tarona west towards the market. It is the most important kampong around Waikabubak, apparently, and also the place of a special ceremony called Wula Padu, every year in November at the start of the Merapu new year. Where the previous kampungs were really small rural villages, Kampung Tarung has the hallmarks of urban development, with concrete walkways and street lights. Well used to tourists, soon after we arrived the visitor book was produced, which includes the expectation of a donation – an excellent idea, actually, so the whole village benefits from tourists. This is perhaps the biggest kampung we have seen so far, especially as it seamlessly merges with Kampung Waitabara, further along the rocky ridge.

Kampung Tarong is obviously more advanced than many others, with satellite dishes and street lights

Kampung Tarong is more advanced than many others, with satellite dishes and street lights

the modern streets, covered with concrete

the modern streets, covered with patterned concrete instead of the usual muddy tracks

work of art, by local artist Lado

work of art, by local artist Lado

another work of art, a mask

another work of art, a mask

woman carrying the shopping

woman carrying the shopping

woman preparing food

woman preparing food

In Tarung, we also met Lado, a part-time artist we showed us a drum of shark skin and shark bone, a jacket from buffalo horn, and two masks he had made, with bones, teeth, horn and tree bark. Different from the usual, these, both drum and masks, were not intended for use, but just creative expressions from a creative man. Unfortunately, there is no market for this, at present, which is why Lado’s work is not sufficiently appreciated, and will likely also not find much following.

 

Interestingly, and talking about art, none of the kampungs visited in the Waikabubak area so far have a lot of decoration, in the form of stone carved totems, and none at all have the wooden patongs we have seen in East Sumba. There is one sculpture of man and buffalo, in Tarung, but for the rest decorations are mostly on tombs, in the form of geometrical figures, or perhaps a stone-carved buffalo head. Equally, the occasional house has the sticks on top of the roof (called kadu una, or horns of the house) decorated, with recognizable figures – like birds, for instance – but mostly, these are either just sticks, or with some geometric carving. Having said this, in the art shops in town (artefact shops, really) there are plenty of roof decorations in the form of men and women: I wonder whether these have been bought by the dealers, and nobody could be bothered to replace them.

Kampung Tarung seamlessly merges with Kampung Waitabara (or jump to the end of the tour, Kampung Bondomarotto)

Tarona

Locations
buffalo horns in Kampung Tarona

buffalo horns in Kampung Tarona

Large kampung outside Waikabubak

Kampung Tarona (?) is east of Kampung Kawainah, following the road past the Muslim community. There is a steep path clambering up the hill, but the tarmac road turns left around, and up to hill, with a turn-off to the village – much easier. This is a much bigger kampong, perhaps 20 houses – conical thatched roofs and all, with one or two exceptions -, and equally welcoming as the others around town. The hill is wider, so there is more space in between the houses, for tombs – and for the inevitable laundry. The verandah one of the houses is excessively decorated, with buffalo horns and skulls, with pig jaws, and whatever else of animal-sacrifice remnant. At the end of the long village, we have the choice: scramble down the steep path, or turn around to the comfortable tarmac road. We turn around.

 

the Kampung Tarona

the Kampung Tarona

not all animals stay below the house, some take over the verandah

not all animals stay below the house, some take over the verandah

decorated verandah of one of the houses

decorated verandah of one of the houses

At the edge of town, next is the important Kampung Tarung (or jump to the end of the tour, Kampung Bondomarotto)

Kawainah

Locations
one of the houses in Kampung Kawaihah

one of the houses in Kampung Kawaihah

Small hill-top kampung to the SE of Waikabubak.

Kampung Kawainah (?), to the south-west of Waikabubak, is reached by following Jalan Ahmad Yani out of town and then turning right, after a few minutes. It is a five-house affair, all with thatched roofs, and with a satellite dish. This is also where one of the old men proudly shows off a, clearly old, overgrown tomb, nothing special in my eyes, but obviously very important for the village. Communication is difficult, even Bahasa Indonesia is not well understood – or perhaps it is just our Bahasa Indonesia. The tomb in the center of the kampong is used to stack baskets. At the edge of the village is a view over the rice paddies and some town houses of Waikabubak. A scramble back down the hill reaches a small road, that runs west past a friendly Muslim community in the middle of rice paddies.

Next is Kampung Tarona (or jump straight to the large Kampung Tarung, or to the end of the tour, Kampung Bondomarotto)

view from the hill, across houses and rice paddies

view from the hill, across houses and rice paddies

 

Tambelar

Locations
tomb at the entrance of Kampung Tambalar

tomb at the entrance of Kampung Tambalar

Attractive kampung right in the centre of Waikabubak

Kampung Tambelar is right in the center of town, on a rocky outcrop bordering the main road through Waikabubak. Essentially, this is a narrow ridge with two rows of houses – mostly traditional houses complete with thatched roofs -, and a series of grey-black stone slabs that represent the tombs of the important deceased villagers – whilst others have been buried at the end of the village, or the beginning, whichever way you are looking at it. Many very friendly people, all curious, yet obviously used to tourists. The verandahs of many houses have been decorated with buffalo horns and skulls, animals sacrificed during ceremonies; the roofs have two wooden sticks, here carved in abstract patterns, which point in the air.

 

central tomb in the kampung

central tomb in the kampung

tombs are being used to dry laundry

tombs are being used to dry laundry

houses are decorated with the horns of slaughtered water buffalo

houses are decorated with the horns of slaughtered water buffalo

toilet facilities haven’t penetrated into the kampong, yet

toilet facilities haven’t penetrated into the kampong, yet

From here it is a short walk to the small Kampung Kawaineh (or jump straight to the large Kampung Tarong, or to the end of the tour, Kampung Bondomarotto)