Semera

Locations
electricity wire towards nowhere

electricity wire towards nowhere

Modern government centre for the Afar region, mostly important because of its hotel

Semera is a strange town. Apparently, the government decided some time ago to establish a new administrative centre for the Afar region, and built Semera, a collection of modern offices and apartments for officials. Seven kilometers from an existing town, Logiya. Seven kilometers from where all the facilities, shops, non-office workers etc. are. Why on earth they required a seven kilometer gap is anybody’s guess, it is certainly not for lack of space in Logiya. Now minibuses plow the distance, adding to the chaos on the road that comes from the hundreds of trucks that use Logiya as an intermediate stop, and those that don’t.

 

laundry in Logiya

laundry in Logiya

outskirts of Logiya

outskirts of Logiya

The good thing is that Semera has the only hotel with en-suite bathrooms – and with airco! – in the entire Afar region north of Awash. As most tourists will be here ahead of their trip to the Danakil Depression, this is the chance to have a last shower, even though it is cold.

the only star hotel north of Awash

the only star hotel north of Awash

Gewane – Afar Region

Locations
Afar man guarding camels

Afar man guarding camels

Desolate desert landscape flanking the Awash River, with little else to do than drive through on the way to or from Djibouti.

The Awash River follows its course north from Awash National Park, to Assaita, where it empties somewhere in the desert, never reaching the Red Sea or the Gulf of Aden. This is Afar Country, controlled by the Afars, an ethnic group that used to be feared for their rather inhospitable customs. Wilfred Thesiger, who traveled this area in the early 20th Century, remarked that “all that mattered to these people was to kill, how they did so had little significance”. The Afar, too, tend to castrate their victims as proof of having killed a man.

a camel herd crossing the main road

a camel herd crossing the main road

charcoal is a major product here

charcoal is a major product here

in the river area, bamboo mats are also an option

in the river area, bamboo mats are also an option

Times have changed, and what is left of the Afar region now is a sparsely inhabited, hauntingly black volcanic landscape, turning increasingly dry the further north we come. The vegetation, if there is any at all, is low acacia trees and shrubs, the ones with sharp needles capable of penetrating a car tire. The only viable business seems to be charcoal production, although occasionally, closer to the river, the land turns into wetland which allows for some agriculture, and for bamboo to be grown, used for mats. For the rest, large areas are entirely empty, no people, no animals – and then, suddenly, there are a few huts again, small round huts. No idea why these people are here. No idea what they are doing here. The occasional camel train crosses the road, well over 200 camels, probably. But for most of the time, basalts dominate. Hard to believe that this is where – as the Ethiopians claim – “it all began”: this is where in 1974 the then-oldest hominid fossil, 3-4 million years old Lucy (after She who was in the Sky with Diamonds) was found. The fact that there are now quite a few older fossils does not diminish the Ethiopian enthusiasm for Lucy, even though, I have been told, there is absolutely nothing to be seen at the site (I didn’t go and check).

Afar landscape

Afar landscape

Mount Ayalu, one of the first volcanoes traveling north

Mount Ayalu, one of the first volcanoes traveling north

Near Gewane, itself not much of a town, there is the Mount Ayelu volcano, right next to the road almost, beautifully showing ancient lava flows on its slopes. An unforgiving, hot landscape where you don’t want to get stuck.

Awash National Park

Locations
sunrise in the Awash National Park

sunrise in the Awash National Park

Fabulous railway hotel near the savannah-type National Park around the Awash river, awash with game and birds.

and bird of prey

and bird of prey

Heading north from Addis Ababa, towards the Afar region and the desert area of Danakil, or to Dera Dawa and Harar, one could do worse than stopping over in Awash, allowing for a visit to the Awash National Park. This is one of the few places in Ethiopia where we saw some larger mammals, in numbers, in between the acacia shrubs and dry savanna. Gazelles, and especially the beautiful Oryx, as well as Kudu and what I think are Waterbuck are crossing our road, or rather, the park tracks. Plenty of birds, as well, of course. The safari lodge inside the park provides a good view of the gorge of the Awash River, and a waterfall – as well as crocodiles.

oryx

oryx

the Awash River Gorge

the Awash River Gorge

Awash also has the Buffet d’Auouche, the hotel built next to the railway station, and obviously dating from when the Addis Ababa-Djibouti line was opened. Apparently, here is where Haile Salassie slept, and Charles de Gaulle, amongst others – likely in the same fabulous room, with private veranda and rocking chair, that we occupied for the night. This is one of those gems, stuck in a previous era, a bit run-down by now, but still with all its romance from a time long gone.

the railroad crossing

the railroad crossing

railway station

railway station

 

alternative use of the railroad tracks, in the absence of a train

alternative use of the railroad tracks, in the absence of a train

on the way to the Djibouti border: no need to hide yet

on the way to the Djibouti border: no need to hide yet

 

Lake Ziway

Locations
some colour at the Lake Zilway market

some colour at the Lake Zilway market

Accessible lake in the Rift Valley, with a rich bird life.

North of Awassa, which itself is situated on Lake Awassa, there are a number of other rift lakes. Lake Shaba is a crater lake, apparently over 245 meters deep, whilst nearby Lake Abiata is much shallower, and more saline. The attraction of Lake Ziway is its accessibility, just off the main road.

transport between Awassa and Lake Ziway

transport between Awassa and Lake Ziway

In a distant past a causeway and wooden jetty covered the distance between shore and lake, crossing a few hundred meters of swampy marshlands. Now, the jetty has collapsed; and so far, nobody cared to repair it. The only way to get to the lake shore now is on a gravel road, which leads to the local fish market: this means that the bird population is dominated by Maribu storks, not the most appetizing of birds; yet, away from the fishing boats there were plenty of other birds, enough to spend some enjoyable time here.

the partly-collapsed jetty

the partly-collapsed jetty

the local fish market

the local fish market

well-equipped fish eater

well-equipped fish eater

black-and-white Kingfisher

black-and-white Kingfisher

and some Egyptian ducks

and some Egyptian ducks

 

impressive fish eagle in flight

impressive fish eagle in flight

 

 

 

Awassa

Locations
Malibu stork at the fish market of Awassa

Malibu stork at the fish market of Awassa

Pleasant lakeside town with an interesting fish market.

On the eastern shore of the Rift Valley is Awassa, a pleasantly modern town next to the lake of the same name. This part of the country seems a whole lot more affluent than the western side of the Rift Valley, or the South Omo River area, or some of the Northern Ethiopia areas. Houses were bigger, and better constructed, clothing seemed of better quality; there was actually a lot of traffic on the road, something we haven’t seen for a while; a much greater variety of vegetables and fruit was on offer in the markets. A striking difference, people seem to be more involved in agriculture, and a lot less in cattle herding, and wealth is not counted in heads of cattle, but in how much money you earn. Which is perhaps why so many people seemed to work so hard, here, making a living for themselves. It is partly geography, no doubt, wooded country side and undulating hills, even steep mountain slopes, with a lot of vegetation, clearly receiving more than the Ethiopian average in terms of rain. But people’s mentality must have something to do with it, too.

fish market activities along the waterfront

fish market activities along the waterfront

the nets

the nets

The biggest draw in Awassa itself is the fish market, colourful in a genuine way, not in the first place a tourist attraction. But other elements, like excellent Italian restaurants and comfortable accommodation, also help to make this a nice place for an overnight stay.

fish for sale

fish for sale

fish being cleaned

fish being cleaned

fisherman clearing the catch of the day, ahead of the birds

fisherman clearing the catch of the day, ahead of the birds

pelican, hoping for the left overs

pelican, hoping for the left overs

 

transport near Awassa

transport near Awassa

The Arbore

Locations
Arbore man

Arbore man

The traditional Arbore village, a stone’s throw away from a standard African village, further undermines the idea of authenticity.

the road to the Lake Chew Bahir and the Arbore region

the road to the Lake Chew Bahir and the Arbore region

In the Weyto desert, a flat expanse of land that looks conspicuously like a rift valley floor, live the Arbore people, generating another disappointing visit to a village; the first word uttered when we arrived was “pen?”, and even before we could get out of the car we were surrounded by photo-beggars. We did have a local guide here, part of the mandatory package, who wandered with us in between the flimsy round huts, the tukuls. The other good thing he did was admitting that the boys that had painted their face did this for special ceremonies, a few times a year, but since there was no ceremony now, they mostly did it for the tourists, instead.

the village: note yet a different hut structure

the village: note yet a different hut structure

another village picture

another village picture

Arbore, including face-painted youngsters, awaiting the next photo shoot

Arbore, including face-painted youngsters, awaiting the next photo shoot

two Arbore girls

two Arbore girls, little in terms of cloths, but so much more in beads around the neck

woman and children

woman and children

Strikingly, it turned out that there is in fact a much larger village 1500 meters down the road, which one would normally not see – but our driver had to come here to get our receipt from the entry payments. Here people live in normal houses, ie. square huts with corrugated iron roofs, and here people wear Western cloths; would they do shifts, Monday, Wednesday, Friday one half of the village goes and entertains the tourists in traditional garb, Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday it is the other half’s turn? Anyhow, further undermining the authenticity of the whole thing, that’s for sure.

the village 1500 m further along is a lot less traditional than the one visited by tourists

the village 1500 m further along is a lot less traditional than the one visited by tourists

Perhaps the most astonishing thing from the valley floor here is the habit to employ human scare crows: in the sorghum fields small platforms have been raised, every 100-200 meters or so, where young men and boys sit with long branches, and a few pebbles, to chase the birds off the crops. Just imagine the opportunity costs, having all these able young men, well, throwing stones at birds the whole day. There must be a more efficient way!

human scare crows

human scare crows

human scarecrows (2)

human scarecrows (2)

NB: Arbore also go by the name of Erbore.

More on the South Omo Valley tribes, as well as my view on this circus, can be accessed through the Ethnic Minorities entry.

Kolcho – the Karo

Locations
young Karo girl

young Karo girl

Beautifully located village with yet another tribe, well prepared to benefit from tourism.

The Karo are one of the smallest tribes in this area, numbering perhaps 1000. They used to be pastoralists, like many other tribes, but since their cattle have succumbed to disease, they have taken to herding goats, and to agriculture.

the Omo river, seen from Kolcho

the Omo river, seen from Kolcho

They live in the village of Kolcho, which is attractively located on a hill overlooking, once again, the Omo River. Thathched roof huts, fairly large, much bigger than those of the Dasanech. Some modern improvements have been installed. But what else can I say? When we arrived, there were five other four-wheel drives parked under the specially constructed car port, just off-loading the tourists. Yet, there were sufficient women and children left to immediately line up next to our car, too, for the inevitable photo, against the inevitable two birr. And although I do believe they have their traditional outfit, once again consisting of very little cloths, I just don’t buy it that they are all permanently so elaborately face- and body-painted, or permanently have a nail through their lower lip, or anything else that – I think – is just an addition to attract the tourist’s camera.

Kolcho village

Kolcho village

storage platforms outside the village

storage platforms outside the village

modernity is catching up: plastic sheeting is waterproofing the roof, and empty oil drums replace traditional water reservoirs

modernity is catching up: plastic sheeting is waterproofing the roof, and empty oil drums replace traditional water reservoirs

Karo woman in front of her house

Karo woman in front of her house

No guide here, so no means of communication; however, I do find a young guy, perhaps 20 years old, who speaks quite good English. He tells me that he studies in Arba Minch, in boarding school, and is just visiting back home. Then he asks me for my pen. You can take the boy out of the village, you can’t take the village out of the boy.

entry to a hut

entry to a hut

Karo family in front of their hut

Karo family in front of their hut

Karo couple

Karo couple

Karo man at the Dimeka market

Karo man at the Dimeka market

Another observation: a man invites me, no, he insists, that I come into his yard, where he and two of his friends are sitting under a thatched roof, eating from an enormous bowl of nuts, or grains, or something. They immediately ask to be photographed – for the regular fee -, and hold up the bowl in front of them, to increase the attraction of the photo’s subject matter. They never, once, contemplate to offer me a grain, or a nut, or whatever it is they are eating from the bowl. In most cultures, you would never not offer some nuts or grains to passing visitors you have just asked in. And in many poor countries I have lived – Haiti, Indonesia, India, you name it -, people would share what they have with visitors. But here tourists are not seen as visitors, with whom you could have a human interaction, they are just seen as mature resources, that can be milked.

All this disturbs me somewhat, to say the least.

 

More on the South Omo Valley tribes, as well as my view on this circus, can be accessed through the Ethnic Minorities entry.

the Karo are goat herders

the Karo are goat herders

and the boys do wear traditional dress, at work

and the boys do wear traditional dress, at work

The Dasanech

Locations
the old man has to laugh about his own outfit, too

the old man has to laugh about his own outfit, too

Primitive living conditions and creative body decoration cannot convincingly claim authenticity.

The Dasanech, another tribe of this region, number perhaps 6000-7000 people, of which the most accessible 500 live just across the river from Omorate, in a small hamlet. It is somehow inconceivable that a hamlet so close to the relatively large town of Omorate is so primitive. Small round huts suggest that the Dasanech were originally nomads, trekking around with their cattle. But I doubt they still do so, with the river conveniently nearby and a shift to agricultural diversification.

Dasanech awaiting the tourists

Dasanech awaiting the tourists

Dasanech are indeed a culture on their own. During the day it is mostly women and girls, and some old men that are present. In terms of cloths, they do not wear much, but body decoration is splendid, and very creative. An older woman has a head-dress of bottle openers, whilst the young girls have used the tops of soft drink bottles for their own head cover. Beads galore, necklaces, bracelets, the whole lot. Sadly, I somehow have the impression that much of this is in response to tourist interest, the sillier you make your outfit, the more likely you are to have your picture taken – going rate two birr. And while not as insistent as the Mursi, they are really only hanging around to be photographed, and they make sure you know it.

 

girls posing for the photo

girls posing for the photo

village elder

village elder

children with bottle top head dress

children with bottle top head dress

Many of these girls should be in school, of course, but here only boys go to school, or so I am told by our guide (I wonder whether even this is true, given the number of young boys playing in the river, but anyhow). I don’t think any of my well-meant arguing why girls should go to school, too, will change the situation in the short term, the tourist business is simply too lucrative. In the long term, I hope, and I think, this culture will slowly die an inevitable death. Living in the very basic conditions that these people live in is not really necessary anymore, in 2012. But everybody will define their own priorities. The few men we talk to in the village all follow the British Premier League Soccer on television, in Omorate. They all think Arsenal is on the wrong track, and should sack the manager. As I said, a matter of priorities.

the village

the village

village hut

village hut

storage platform

storage platform

NB: there are various spellings of Dasanech (Dassanech, Dhasanech), and the tribe also goes by the names of Galeb, and Reshiat.

More on the South Omo Valley tribes, as well as my view on this circus, can be accessed through the Ethnic Minorities entry.

Omorate

Locations
a woman making her way

a woman making her way

Steaming river-side town on the banks of the Omo River, in the heartland of the Dasanech people.

termite hill

termite hill

Omorate is reached from Turmi, a couple of hours further down the road, through dense savannah land. Plenty of birds, here, and the occasional dikdik, but not much more, except for the ubiquitous termite hills. Everywhere, they reach for the sky, like chimneys, sometimes higher than the surrounding trees.

Omorate is a town you cannot miss, if only because it is at the end of the road, on the Omo River. The town itself is not much, despite its dual carriage way main street, but the reason to come to Omorate is to visit the Dasanech, another tribe of this region. To get there, one needs to cross the river, in a dug-out canoe, and scramble up the far bank.

Omorate courtyard

Omorate courtyard

canoes ready to take tourists across

canoes ready to take tourists across

Omorate duel carriage way leading to nowhere

Omorate duel carriage way leading to nowhere

but not only tourists make the crossing

but not only tourists make the crossing

laundry day

laundry day

cows enjoying the river

cows enjoying the river

Life along the river is lively; we are not the only ones using a canoe. The muddy waters are good enough for washing, of cloth and people, and equally good enough for cattle to come and drink and to take a bath.

The Dasanech are subject to a separate entry.

Dimeka

Locations
show me the money!

show me the money!

Market town with a large attendance of Hamar people, and the usual tourist traps.

Another town, another market. Dimeka’s is on Saturdays, and is marginally bigger than Key Afar. Most people in Dimeka are “normal”, according to our driver, with which he means that they go dressed in Western cloths. However, on market day there are a lot of out-of-towners around, mostly Hamar, and many indeed in traditional dress – although it seems that the women have been encouraged to put on a T-shirt.

 

 

the market

the market

who sells what to whom here, I am not sure

who sells what to whom here, I am not sure

and more market scene

and more market scene

selecting a new fashion item

selecting a new fashion item

no idea what is in the pots

no idea what is in the pots

everybody participates

everybody participates

refreshments from the local bar

refreshments from the local bar

preparing for the bull jumping ceremony

preparing for the bull jumping ceremony

There has been talk of the traditional bull jumping ceremony, a Hamar custom in which they first beat up their wives, and then have the young boys walk over the backs of up to eight bulls, to prove their manhood. As a tourist, apparently you may be lucky, or not; after all, this is a serious cultural thing, important in Hamar society, not to be taken lightly. It must have been just coincidence then that, a few days ago when we arrived in Turmi, they just had had the ceremony; it must also have been coincidence that the hotel was fully booked, that day. But how lucky we were that in Dimeka they were, just today, going to have another such ceremony! And what a coincidence that, just today, there were once again so many tourist around! Who were all going to be paying a fat entrance fee!

Nothing authentic, here. In the original ceremony the bull jumping is the final activity of a three day feast, carefully prepared once a year, so it is rather incredible that one doesn’t know yet whether there will be one in a few hour time. If they could just admit that the whole thing is a show.