It happens to be Tibetan New Year, called Losar. And this is celebrated in Dirang for all the villages in the surrounding, many of which have sent their traditional dance groups to the festival. The groups are small, perhaps four of five people each, but all have been dressed up, with costumes, masks, and colourful hats. One group has brought a bull – the costume of a bull -, another two snow lions.
Everybody is exceedingly friendly and hospitable, nobody treats us like invaders – what we are, of course, showing up at the gate uninvited. But from that gate we are immediately directed towards the dancers.
We are early, the dances haven’t started yet, but the groups are conveniently lined up, for the photos. We are invited into the enclosure for VIPs; being the only foreigners has its advantages. But after a few minutes we get up again, preferring to walk around. Talking to the many people who have dressed in traditional cloths, and are proud to show off; or the people at the various food and drink stalls, which, I think, are not commercial enterprises but the stalls of different clans, where people from the village gather again, after having completed their performances. Also, witnessing the Buddhist ceremony, for which the yellow-hatted monks have come to the festival ground to perform prayers, chanting and offerings, which are being received by the many important people. Who have also made an effort to dress up, it looks.
After the ceremony we are, like everybody else, covered with flower, that’s the thing to do. And when we indicate that we really need to leave, we are first treated to fruit and apa, home-brewed rice wine, in one of the stalls.
I am sure we could have spent the rest of the day here, weathering the long speeches and enjoying more of the traditional dancing. And no doubt drinking lots more apa. But after an hour or two – to the mild dismay of our driver, who had wanted to leave much earlier – we left, for Bomdilla, further down the mountain.


































